Easter Traditions

On Lazarus Saturday, the island of Meganisi is transformed into a tableau of springtime purity and renewal. The narrow paths gleam with fresh whitewash, while the air in every courtyard and alleyway is perfumed with the earthy, sweet aromas of sage, rosemary, and blooming roses.

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From the early morning hours, the island comes alive with the joyful voices of children as they move from door to door, reviving the age-old custom of singing lazarakia. Holding small baskets adorned with daisies, lilies, and rosemary, they chant the traditional verses with innocence and reverence:
“Lazarus, who passed away, and rose again with candlelight, tell us, Lazarus, what did you see in Hades, where you went...”

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As the afternoon sun casts long shadows across the village, the children, guided by their elders, make their way to the church. There, in an atmosphere of quiet devotion, they begin the careful crafting of palm crosses, which the priest will bless and offer to the faithful during the Palm Sunday liturgy.

On Palm Sunday, a deep sense of reverence envelops the island, as the faithful make their way to church, carrying the palm crosses they wove the day before — cherished not only as symbols of faith, but also as talismans of protection.

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These blessed crosses find their place in different corners of daily life. Some are gently laid upon the home’s icon stand, others are tied beside the image of Saint Nicholas on fishing boats, and many are placed in the fields, entrusted with guarding crops and animals through the seasons.

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Whether or not one is observing the full Lenten fast, this day is marked by a shared tradition: the table is set with fish — the only permitted exception — as a sign of celebration and spiritual relief before the solemn days that follow.

Holy Monday, Holy Tuesday, and Holy Wednesday days that unfold in a quiet yet deeply charged rhythm, as every corner of the island stirs with preparation. The locals, guided by tradition and a heartfelt anticipation of Easter, tend to every detail: cleaning, cooking, decorating, and making ready for the night of the Resurrection and the celebratory Easter feast that will follow.

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As daylight fades behind the mountains and the sea, the churches of the island begin to glow with candlelight and fill with the soft murmurs of prayer. In an atmosphere of deep reverence, the faithful gather each evening to attend the solemn services of Holy Week — moments of reflection and devotion through which they experience, step by step, the sacred journey of the Passion.

On the morning of Holy Thursday, the women of the island immerse themselves in one of the most symbolic and cherished Easter traditions: dyeing eggs a deep red — the color of sacrifice and resurrection. With care and consideration, they prepare more than they need for their own homes, knowing they must share with relatives or neighbors who, due to mourning, will not be taking part in the custom this year.

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Soon, the courtyards fill with the aromas of baking, as the wood-fired ovens are lit. Breads are kneaded, Easter cookies shaped, and savory wild greens pies prepared — humble yet special dishes, deeply rooted in the day’s tradition.

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In the afternoon, the island gathers at the churches. In an atmosphere of profound devotion, the Twelve Gospels are read and the Service of the Crucifixion is held. Women bring their offerings — intricate handcrafted embroideries, acts of faith and love, dedicated to Christ for the health and protection of their loved ones.

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Throughout the night, the church doors remain open — a subtle yet powerful symbol of spiritual vigilance and the faithful anticipation of the Resurrection. Young women adorn the Epitaph with flowers, a delicate and devotional task, while the older women "keep vigil" for Christ, chanting the Hymns of the Passion with reverence and emotion.

Good Friday dawns sorrowful and deeply solemn. From the early hours, the island's faithful quietly make their way to the churches to venerate the Crucified Christ, in a spirit of reverence and strict fasting, having not even sipped water. Upholding one of the island’s oldest traditions, children go from house to house chanting the Passion hymns, carrying the mourning from door to door.

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The women refrain completely from any household chores. No cooking, no table-setting, and no one sits at the table. The fast is observed with absolute austerity, no oil is consumed, and the elder women touch their lips only with vinegar, sharing symbolically in Christ’s suffering.

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The Unnailing service takes place at different times depending on the island, at noon in Katomeri, and in the morning in Vathy and Spartochori. In the evening, one of the most moving moments of Holy Week unfolds, the Lamentations of the Epitaphios are chanted, followed by a candlelit procession through the village streets, wrapped in silence and sacred devotion.

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When the procession returns to the church, a long-standing tradition begins, the Burning of Judas. A human effigy, representing betrayal, is carried in a grand procession with torches and fireworks before being cast into the flames a dramatic and symbolic ritual that seals the sanctity and intensity of Good Friday on the island.

On the morning of Holy Saturday, as soon as the church bell rings, every household takes part in a unique custom known as “to kommáti” — the breaking of a clay or ceramic object. This loud and symbolic act is meant to shatter the silence of mourning and announce, with joyful noise, the coming of the Resurrection.

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In the evening, when the bells ring once more, the entire village gathers at the church, each person holding a candle. Everyone stands in the courtyard as all the lights go out and the Resurrection service begins with the solemn hymn: “ Lift up your gates, O ye princes, and be ye lifted up..."

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When the moment of the Resurrection arrives, the Holy Light is passed from candle to candle, and the village streets fill with glowing flames, quiet joy, and whispered greetings of hope.

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Upon returning home, people mark a cross above their doorway with the smoke of the Holy Flame — a sign of faith and divine protection. Then, they light the vigil lamp (kandíli) and gather around the festive table, where the Lenten fast ends and the joy of the Resurrection is shared among family and loved ones.

On Easter Sunday, the island awakens early, brimming with energy and joy. The women begin preparing for the festive table with care and enthusiasm, laying out white tablecloths in the courtyards and filling the kitchens with the aromas of traditional delicacies. Meanwhile, the men light the fires and prepare the spits for roasting lamb and kokoretsi, continuing a custom passed down through generations.

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In the neighborhoods, families and friends gather around the fires. With traditional music, singing, and dancing, the authentic Easter celebration begins, a spontaneous, communal festivity where food, wine, and togetherness create a joyful bridge between the spiritual and the everyday.

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In Katomeri, the rhythm of tradition takes a slightly different pace, even today, some locals choose to roast their lamb on Easter Monday, honoring an old custom that lives on from yard to yard, and from one generation to the next.